Porto – a blog from April
Some places you just get a good vibe. Despite arriving late one evening, the taxi dropping us off at the top of the road (traffic prohibited down on the waterfront), it felt . . . good. The last bit had been along the River Douro (Av. Gustavo Eiffel) past the lower deck of the Dom Luis bridge to the Prica da Ribeira. Now I am always a sucker for some pretty street lights reflecting in water and add street performers/happy buzz of people chatting/eating/drinking . . . yep, there was a good vibe.
Welcome
The suitcases had a mind of their own, free wheeling down the hill to the Pestana Vintage Porto ‘caught’ by the doorman who navigated them onwards to the reception area and rewarding us with a drink – rose Port . . . very welcoming! It wasn’t until next morning (always like to be up with the lark to photograph the sunrise) that we appreciated our ‘room with a view’. The hotel blurb says ‘many rooms and common areas provide breathtaking panoramic views of the Douro River, the Gaia wine cellars, and the iconic D. Luis Bridge’. That is a bit of an understatement. As it was April, the sun was rising up behind us being on the left of the window. As it had just cleared the horizon (a mixture of steep hill and buildings blocking its rays), suddenly there was this incredible sepia light . . . and all before my first cup of tea!
We have this ‘thing’ when we visit a new city. We try and book a ‘walking tour’ to orientate ourselves. They are usually by people who are passionate about their city (though I do read the reviews to pick which one). It’s a great way of getting a smattering of history, local knowledge and good view points for the camera especially going back with the tripod for ‘magic’ time/sunset. (Our man was Tiago – highly recommend – perfect combination of intellectual/historical/local knowledge especially as he was born/grew up in the area so could document the changes.)
Sunset
So we had plans, done the research but then . . . didn’t want to rush the great meal at the Ribeira Square (particularly the black ink spaghetti with prawns). We wanted the sunset. We knew the recommended spot was at the top of the bridge ie up a steep hill. However, there is the Funicular dos Guindais – a cliff lift up to the top . . . except the ‘world and his wife/child/husband/dog’ also wanted to be there! We got in the queue patiently waiting our turn thinking . . . yep . . . might just get this last one up before the sun sets. Except the man said ‘no’! But then . . . he changed his mind. Did he see our faces, our equipment or . . . just felt sorry for us? I would have kissed him but the lift was about to close it doors.
So there we were on top of the bridge scrabbling around getting the tripod up and the camera in place. We had planned to go to the far side but . . . it was busy so just grabbed the first spot where we weren’t in the way of others wanting to watch this moment. Ironically, unknown to us, the other side of the bridge is great for people, not so good for cameras; it shakes! What with the metro trains going past every few moments and with hoards of people walking up and down . . . it is very bouncy ie shows up as blurry in a photograph with a long exposure. Anyway . . . we got a picture and, when the ‘world and his wife/child/husband/dog’ had watched the sun set and went home, we were still there taking our time composing . . . watching the colours and . . . chilling. The vibe was good.
So we had the classic sunset picture . . . thanks to the lift man. Next day . . . across the river on the Gaia side. This time we had a ride on the cable car (bear in mind how much Andy hates heights). We had arrived in plenty of time to ‘play’ including a six bridges boat ride in the sunshine. This time we were in position for the evening sun moving down some rickety wooden steps (us not the sun) to catch the rays/water/Rabelo boats. Again, the vibe was good. People walking, chilling, eating, drinking . . .
Douro Valley
We did take time off to have a day in the Douro Valley (Dourofirstours@gmail.com) . . . Port/wine tasting, a boat ride and a fantastic meal . . . this needs a blog all to itself. The mist cleared for us to see the beauty of the river from on high and those beautiful mountains . . . stunning.
There were other adventures . . . visit by trolly bus to the lighthouses/beach (either from along the waterfront number 1 or from the Torre dos Clergies – number 18 – redid both) and revisiting some locations to ‘play’ with the camera. My favourite (despite having to dodge the American tourists from the river cruises) was the Sao Bento Train station with the ceramic tiles. Here is where my favourite photograph was taken. Unfortunately, not by us but Joao Cabral – a landscape, documental and street photographer. The conversation we had about where he stood, what time of year, what the light is like in winter in Porto . . . thank you. It was very difficult to choose one to take back as a treasured memory of you and our time in Porto. Did I say . . . it has a great vibe?!
and finally . . . a few more images from Porto
The Dom Luis Bridge
